Out food expert stars in new show

By Larry Nichols
PGN Staff Writer
© Philadelphia Gay News

Ted Allen proves that at least he can have his cake and eat it too.

The out author, culinary enthusiast and TV personality is best known for his work judging shows like Bravo’s “Top Chef” and the Food Network’s “Iron Chef America,” as well as PBS’ “Uncorked: Wine Made Simple.”

Allen’s latest gig is hosting the Food Network’s “Food Detectives,” a series exploring the connection between science and food, revealing the answers to some of the most puzzling food mysteries, like, is the five-second rule valid or does baking soda really deodorize your refrigerator?

Allen said that “Food Detectives” is the kind of show he’s wanted to do for a while.

“I’ve been doing ‘Iron Chef’ and ‘Top Chef’ all along, so I’ve had plenty to do and nice exposure on those two big cable networks,” he said. “It’s taken us a while to find the right fit. I didn’t really want to do an instructional cooking show. I wanted to incorporate elements of pop culture and still have an interest in food and wine, and I think we did it. It also has a lot of comedy so it pushes all the buttons I was hoping to push.”

Allen said the show is a welcome break from the more competitive and high-pressure reality-based cooking shows.

“I feel very, very bad for them,” he said about the contestants on “Top Chef.” “I enjoy tasting people’s food and I enjoy seeing people take risks and trying to create something great and new. I don’t enjoy kicking people off.”

Allen didn’t start his career as a food expert. He had earned a master’s degree in journalism from New York University and an undergraduate degree in psychology from Purdue University.

It wasn’t until he started working as a senior editor and restaurant critic at Chicago magazine that he found himself immersed in the world of culinary arts.

“Food is such a part of the culture at that magazine that I began being sent to interview new chefs and check out seasonal menu tastings and I kind of fell in love with the culture of cooking,” he said. “Since then, I began cooking more and obsessively collecting cookbooks and learning how to do more sophisticated things in the kitchen. It’s probably my No. 1 pastime at this point.”

Allen added that the reason he is so fascinated by cooking is probably the same reason cooking shows have such a dedicated following.

“When you reach the end of your 20s and you have more responsibilities at work, it’s not as easy for you and your friends to spend every night out hanging around at bars or fooling around generally,” he said. “People tend to start entertaining at home, cooking more and having people over for dinner. That’s what my friends and I started doing when we were pushing 30. I think you learn a lot about cooking from these shows. Even though they’re primarily entertainment vehicles and they’re not instructional by nature, you see chefs doing new techniques or paying homage to the classics. It inspires you to try things.”

On top of his current show and a possible fifth season of “Top Chef,” Allen has authored books like “The Food You Want to Eat: 100 Smart, Simple Recipes” and co-authored the bestselling “Queer Eye for the Straight Guy: The Fab Five’s Guide to Looking Better, Cooking Better, Dressing Better, Behaving Better and Living Better.”

Allen, who is an avid collector, said the best cookbooks are more than just great collections of recipes.

“What I mainly want from a cookbook is inspiration, even if I’m not going to use a specific recipe,” he said. “I think a good cookbook is one that has a lot of personality.”

Allen added that those qualities are something he strived for in his cookbook.

“I hope that that it does the job of being personal and being real, adding something to the conversation,” he said.

Needless to say, with all the writing and television appearances, Allen’s schedule is pretty hectic.

“I love ‘Top Chef’ and I love ‘Iron Chef,’” he said. “It’s always been my policy to try to do everything. I don’t have a spare minute. We’re in production and it just eats your life. I’m afraid I’m not going to get a vacation for a while. We’ll be done on Aug. 7 so after that, I’m going to go to Fire Island. If anybody from Philly wants to join me, I’ll be on the beach curled into a ball, hyperventilating and drinking something strong.”

Don’t feel too bad for him. Allen seems more than happy to subject himself to the grind of his career for the perks it brings.

“I’ve been sitting next to people like Anthony Bourdain and Eric Ripert, who in addition to being a legendary chef, is fantastically handsome,” he said. “Getting to know them a little bit and getting the opportunity to discuss other people’s food is a thrill. Then I get their cell-phone numbers and it helps me get into their restaurants. When these people are your heroes, it’s a real thrill to meet them.”

“Food Detectives” premieres at 9 p.m. July 29 on the Food Network. For more information, visit www.tedallen.net.

Larry Nichols can be reached at larry@epgn.com.