OUTward Bound

Making ‘The Big Easy’ a little easier

By Nick Corsano
PGN Contributor
© 2008 Nick Corsano and Philadelphia Gay News

The first time I stepped off a plane in New Orleans, I was a little wary of what I would encounter. We’ve all watched television exploit Mardi Gras — showcasing the elaborate costumes, people spilling over wrought-iron balconies and alcohol flowing through the streets — but I had to assume that wasn’t the case all the time. What was New Orleans like when that world-renowned party wasn’t going on? What else did it have to offer?

The question of the real New Orleans was pertinent the first time I visited the Crescent City, and still is today, just three years after the devastating Hurricane Katrina. When I went, those were the only other images I had fresh in mind. Also, continuously exploited by the media, I couldn’t help but ask myself, what had this tragedy done to this city rich in history and loud in culture? Though still rebuilding, I encountered hope. Faces of aspiration and determination line the streets these days. People greet you as if nothing has changed. They don’t let you see their pain, only the pride they have for their city. These faces will be the cornerstones to New Orleans’ complete rejuvenation.

New Orleans, or N’Orleans (“Naw-lens”) as it is fondly referred to, is one of the greatest cultural melting pots in the United States. Nestled along the banks of the Mississippi, The Big Easy boasts an array of sights, sounds and smells unlike anywhere else. New Orleans continuously perseveres as an innovative metropolis while maintaining its rich cultural heritage. I was excited to delve into the collage of arts, entertainment, culture and cuisine this Southern city offers its visitors year round.

Staying in the Center of It All

Times Square, South Beach and Hollywood are all famous neighborhoods in world-renowned cities. In New Orleans, the French Quarter claims the spot on this infamous list. Overflowing with attractions, restaurants and accommodations, the French Quarter is at the heart of New Orleans life.

Staying in the French Quarter is an adventure all its own. The sounds, and sometimes the people, roll off the street to create a pleasurable stay. Each unique in style and ambiance, the hotels of the French Quarter reach out to their guests with classic New Orleans hospitality adorned with modern amenities. Tucked among the Spanish architectural influence, luxurious accommodations peer out through unchanged historic exteriors. One of the most pristine hotels in New Orleans and by far the best choice for the LGBT traveler is The Bourbon Orleans Hotel. At 717 Orleans St., The Bourbon Orleans is literally right around the corner from the center of gay life in New Orleans, offering its guests only the best in style and comfort. Complete with an exquisite dining room and pool, the hotel showcases quintessential Southern extravagance.

For those interested in learning more about the French Quarter and its LGBT history, set aside time for the Gay Heritage Tour, a 2.5-hour walking tour of the Quarter that highlights the city’s rich LGBT culture. Narrated by New Orleans’ history laureate Robert Batson, the tour notes events such as the Clay Shaw Trial and the 1977 Anita Bryant Protest. It also recognizes such major LGBT figures from New Orleans as Tennessee Williams, Ellen DeGeneres and Truman Capote. The tour departs from Alternatives, 909 Bourbon St., at 4 p.m. on Wednesdays and at 1 p.m. on Saturdays upon demand (four or more). Tickets are $20 each and proceeds go to support The Bienville Foundation, a nonprofit 501(c)(3) educational organization dedicated to the preservation and development of valued cultures in Louisiana. For more information, call (504) 945-6789. And make sure to pack your comfiest Pumas because tour or not, walking is the only way to see the Quarter.

Gold isn’t the only color in New Orleans

For all the artistic tourists, NOLA has an exquisite arts scene year round. Galleries and antique shops line the cobblestone streets of the Quarter. The trinkets and antiques appear as if they have been untouched from the time they were originally used in the old brick houses where they are displayed. You can walk for hours and still not reach every gallery. Your best bet would be to walk the length of Royal Street, populated with everything from contemporary paintings to watercolors and abstracts to 19th-century armoires.

The other thriving arts community in New Orleans is located in the Warehouse District. Originally an industrial section of town where grain, produce and coffee were stored, it eventually faded and was subsequently transformed into the Arts District that we see today. Casually named “the Soho of the South,” this section of New Orleans boasts galleries and performing arts studios. Mostly located along Julia Street, the Arts District has a far more contemporary feel than the Quarter. Concrete and minimalist in style, this booming arts community attracts visitors and artists from all over. Amid the galleries and studios, there are convenient cafés where you can rest your feet and absorb the creativity.

White Linen Night is an annual event that goes on throughout the Warehouse District each year. It occurs on the first Saturday of August from 6-9 p.m. The pre-season arts festival involves over 20 galleries, the Center for Performing Arts and artists from all over the world; live music and curbside cash bars and eateries make this event one of the many summer highlights in New Orleans. Best of all, it’s free.

Decafest, a celebration of LGBT arts and culture, runs concurrent with Southern Decadence. Like the Gay Heritage Tours, Decafest is organized by the Bienville Foundation and features theater, music, film, comedy and community. Proceeds go to HIV/AIDS organizations, LGBT community groups and post-Katrina assistance organizations. It is a great, fun way to view the creative side of New Orleans and close out the summer.

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New Orleans is famous for its cuisine. The array of different cultural palates that have been tangled up to create what’s on your plate is astounding. Famous for everything from Creole to Cajun, gumbo to Emeril, N’Orleans’ cooking is always producing something new, exotic and spicy. If you have a weak stomach, you might have some difficulty finding food to satisfy you, as there is not much in the way of bland or mainstream cooking in NOLA. But, hey, you are in a different place, try some different food.

Two dishes that are sure to satisfy any eater are beignets and muffuletta. Pronounced “muff-uh-Lot-uh” by locals of New Orleans, it is still pronounced “moo-foo-Let-ta” by the Central Grocery [923 Decatur St., (504) 620-0174] where the sandwich originated in 1906. Italian in heritage, muffuletta consists of a piece of foccacia bread or one similar to it, 10 inches around. On the bread, olive salad is spread and capicola, salami, mortadella, emmentaler and provolone are layered in the middle. This sandwich has become so well known it is served at Disney’s Riverside Resort Food Court.

Beignets are another treat of New Orleans. Deep-fried French doughnuts smothered in powdered sugar, beignets are a post-lunch or dinner dessert sure to satisfy your sweet tooth. They are served daily at the famous Café du Monde [800 Decatur St., (504) 525-4544] near the French Market. Forget your low-carb diet, they are worth the calories.

The Mississippi is not the only thing that flows through New Orleans

If your travel activities tend to be less conservative, New Orleans will be your kind of town. The bar and club scene is off the hook. Close in proximity, the majority of gay bars and clubs lie in and around the Quarter, which is always good when you have a “to-go” cup in hand. That’s right, “to-go.” Bars in New Orleans are happy to fill your larger-than-normal plastic container full of alcoholic goodness. No glass or cans are allowed in the open, but with the classy “to-go” cup, you’re golden.

With as loud a history as their music, the bars and clubs in New Orleans sport 24-hour service so you can decide when the party ends. Have a gimlet at Café Lafitte in Exile [901 Bourbon St.], the oldest gay bar in the country and favorite spot of Tennessee Williams. If you are more of a club hopper and loud music, flashy lights and boys fit your fancy, stroll over to the Bourbon Pub Parade [801 Bourbon St.] or Oz Nightclub [800 Bourbon St.]; they will be sure to satisfy your urges. For all of those simply looking for a classy cocktail, free of a smoky atmosphere (that’s right, you can still smoke in bars, it is the South), head over to Napoleon’s Itch [734 Bourbon St.], where the martinis will always be dirtier than the interior. Finally, for all the ladies, Tomatillo’s [437 Esplanade Ave.] is your spot. Ladies’ night is every Tuesday. Great Mexican food, Pearl Vodka specials and the best margaritas in town are sure to make for an entertaining night. The occasional live music doesn’t hurt either.

Whatever street you stroll down, you’re bound to find a place where the people are fun, the music is bumping and, in Southern fashion, the drinks are “dirty dirty.”

Southern Decadence

Referred to as “Gay Mardi Gras,” Southern Decadence is the premier LGBT event of the year in New Orleans. Held over Labor Day weekend, this year from Aug. 27-Sept. 1, travelers usually start showing up on Wednesday and stay through the following Tuesday. This outrageous event draws around 120,000 LGBT visitors to New Orleans. The “Pink Triangle” or gay section of the Quarter is packed for the entire weekend. There is a free outdoor concert on Bourbon Street on Saturday afternoon, and on Sunday, the annual parade begins at 2 p.m. The official theme for this year? “Decadence Does Disco.”

Chi Chi La Rue, “The Diva of Decadence” herself, will be hosting for the 11th year in a row. Performers this year include comedian Shirley Q. Liquor, Deborah Cox, Kimberley Lock and Pepper Mashay, returning for a special performance at Sunday night’s Meltdown party.

Weekend passes are recommended for this insane event. You can purchase them online prior to your arrival, which will help you avoid the general-admission lines. Visit www.southerndecadence.net for more information on schedules, hotels, travel and weekend-pass purchases.

Decadence is in just a couple of weeks, so if you plan to partake in this no-holds-barred weekend, make your reservations and plans now before everything is sold out. It will be worth it to find out why New Orleans is known as “The City that Care Forgot.”

Whether you’re a party animal or an art connoisseur, a culinary critic or simply love history, New Orleans has something for everyone. Rich in LGBT history, you can learn about events that have helped shape our community down South and participate in festivals that continue to shape the community today. And be prepared — you will have a totally unique experience in New Orleans. The people are friendly, and the beads are free, so pack your party wear and head down to The Big Easy. Once you are there, you’ll understand why it’s ironic they have a team called the Saints.