After moving to a bigger space and adding a bar to increase its allure, Union Taco in Manayunk is upping its taco game.
The menu features familiar fare like tortas, tacos, burritos and salads, with a few starters and sides for good measure. Union Taco does those few items, with a decent range of proteins and/or veggies, very well.
The guacamole ($7) is offered three ways: straight-up, ringed with pico de gallo or surrounded by a strawberry habañero salsa. Do yourself a favor and order the latter. One normally doesn’t think strawberry goes with guacamole, but in this case, it works — imagine you are imbibing a daiquiri with your chips and dip. And the mix also greatly mutes the spiciness of the habañero for a bright and vibrant start to a meal. The Mexican corn ($5) is solid — nowhere near as decadent and overdressed as other restaurants like to present the street food, but a good roast and sprinkle of seasoning, queso fresco and lime juice is all you really need to make it tasty.
Tacos at Union range from the traditional proteins like beef, chicken and pork to more adventurous fillings like cactus and oxtail. We leaned more towards the exotic fillings and they were all winners. The fish taco ($5) was robust: flash-fried and stuffed with slaw and soy ginger. The most unique of the tacos we tried was the wild-mushroom taco ($4.50) with goat cheese, black-bean salsa and caramelized onions. It was surprisingly juicy and delivered a lot of flavor for an unconventional taco. Then there was the cactus taco ($4.50), which, for a veggie taco, was meaty in texture and delivered bright and spicy flavors, with balance from the sweet potato and chipotle aioli.
Whether you stay in your taco comfort zone or venture outside the traditional Tex-Mex lines, Union Taco has enough flair and quality on its menu to keep Manayunk full and interested for the foreseeable future.
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